Holy Willy has taken over Tam o’ Shanter’s Links
Value – 5 / 5, using ‘The Art of the Deal’
Moly’s Score – 89
I’m a Burns man. I know his poems, songs and characters. When I unearthed that the real-life inspiration for Burns’ poem Tam o’ Shanter farmed one mile from Turnberry’s first tee, I had to dig deeper.
Shanter Farm sits adjacent to ‘Maidens’ on the Ayrshire coast. Douglas Graham farmed it in the late 1700s. His drinking ‘crony’ was John Davidson, a cobbler from Kirkoswald. Burns was just 16, in 1775, when he was sent to study in Kirkoswald, where he met Douglas and John, presumably in the pub. They made a lasting impression on the young Robert, who 15 years later used them as the blueprint for ‘Tam o’ Shanter’ and ‘Souter Johnnie’, the hero and his trusted companion, in, arguably, the greatest narrative Scottish poem.
The land of Tam o Shanter would become one of the finest golf courses on earth, but the metaphorical ownership by Burns’ characters wouldn’t end there.
The Course
The Ailsa is in my top three of the 300 plus courses I’ve played to date (at June 2026). It also sits comfortably in most top 20 lists for courses world wide.
A course was laid out in 1901 by Willie Fernie, who was commissioned by Archibald Kennedy, the 3rd Marquess of Ailsa, who foresaw the links could be highly profitable with a railway and hotel, both of which duly opened in 1906. Sadly, the World Wars obliterated the golf resort – the railway closed permanently in 1942. Between 1949 and 1951, Philip Mackenzie Ross, the pre-eminent post war architect, restored the layout to the one which, in 1977, famously hosted the “Duel in the Sun”, between Nicklaus and Watson.
‘The Donald’ purchased the resort in 2014 for £47m, renaming it ‘Trump Turnberry’ and, between 2015 and 2016, Martin Ebert reconstructed the five holes along the coast and transformed the 9th from a par four into arguably the most dramatic par three in Scottish golf. Later he would extend the 16th into a challenging par 4, which will hopefully one day test Open entrants.
The headline rate to play in Summer is an astonishing “up to £1000” (2026). Which begs the question, “How much is perfection worth?”, a hyperbolic one probably crafted by Trump himself. Unbeknownst to Donald, Burns wrote a potentially prophetic and skewering poem about his like, called ‘Holy Willie’s Prayer”. ‘Holy Willie’, a man of towering narcissism who presents himself as chosen and blessed, operating by rules that apply to everyone else. Joking aside, the course is magnificent; perhaps Holy Willie occasionally got it right.
The Art of The Deal?
At Scotland’s posh courses, like Muirfield or Royal Troon, the list price is the list price. They don’t negotiate. Trump operates differently – he’ll do a deal. When I played, the eye watering rate was £500. Looking late on the day before, the tee sheet showed plenty of spaces. I phoned the Pro shop, deployed my persuasive Dundonian vernacular, explaining I could only afford a ‘hundred quid that I’d saved up’. We settled at what might be my best value golf ever – £130. The man on the other end of my call had, in his own small way, something of the Bard’s spirit from Burns’ The Jolly Beggars; happy to set aside rank and rule for an afternoon, and let an ordinary punter in on the deal. He operated outside the script and created a very happy man..
So, is it perfect? At £500 (2023) I would give it four out of five on value, still exceptional, because very few courses in Scotland could justify that price. At £130 it is five out of five without hesitation. My greatest value ever.
The Round
I was paired with 8 handicapper Ian Moffat of Cumbernauld, a naval submariner home on leave, who chose to play from the white tees (6,543 yards), whilst I played the yellows (6,110 yards). The added 433 yards sounds manageable unless you are playing into a stiffening links breeze on a treacherous layout.
Despite a few early lost balls Ian continued off white, displaying the perseverance of submariners. Whilst I didn’t keep Ian’s score, I suspect it was the wrong side of a century, as mine would have been off white. Ian was, in the finest Burns tradition, one ‘Tam Samson’, the Kilmarnock sportsman Burns immortalised for his dogged refusal to leave the field, a man who would rather perish in the attempt than concede defeat. Burns wrote that Tam Samson’s dying words would be that he had never given up. Ian Moffat did not give up either – well done Ian.
I shot 89, with three triple bogeys. I hit the ball about as well as I can. If Burns had played golf – and given his appetite for competitive pursuits, convivial company, and the Ayrshire outdoors, I suspect he would have been a natural – he would have recognised himself in the honest, truth-seeking spirit of the game. He was always ‘Davie’, the brother poet, the man seeking meaning in simple honest experience rather than in rank or gold. I’d like to think that summarised our day at Turnberry.
The first two holes ease you in, running through inland undulations with the hotel presiding grandly over everything. By the third, the sea begins to announce itself. By the fourth, you are into the dunes proper, the gorse blazing yellow in the March light.
The coastal sequence from holes four to eleven is beautiful. Ebert’s redesign brought several of these holes right to the clifftop edge. The seventh was already magnificent; a long par five threading between dunes with the sea appearing and disappearing to the left.
The Ninth
The ninth hole at Turnberry Ailsa is now one of the great short holes in world golf; but not really short for us mortals! Ebert converted it from a par four, placing the tee on the cliff beside the ruins of Turnberry Castle; birthplace, most likely, of Robert the Bruce, though that story belongs to the other course here, the King Robert the Bruce course. The green sits just below the lighthouse, perched above the rocks and the sea, perhaps the best half way house in golf.
Was Burns a Golfer?
It is worth pausing to consider how old this story is. Jack Boyd, in his history of Turnberry Golf Club, quotes a letter of 15th February 1751 from Archibald Kennedy (most likely the great-grandfather of his namesake who built the course in 1901) to Sir Thomas Kennedy, describing golf at Girvan, five miles south of Turnberry, among lairds, a minister, and a doctor, with Sir John judge of both the golf and the drinking. So, three years before the St Andrews Golf Society was formed, golf was being played on the Ayrshire coast. Burns, born in 1759, would have known golfers and recognised all the aforementioned players. He would have found Tam o’ Shanter among them.
The twelfth tee looks back toward the war memorial on the hill — a stark reminder that this land was twice an RAF airfield, its fairways buried under concrete and tarmac while pilots trained and died here. Something approaching 200 men lost their lives at Turnberry during the two wars.
From thirteen onward the course begins its journey home, moving back through the dunes toward the hotel. These holes are less dramatic than the coastal sequence but beautifully crafted — fair, strategic, and very demanding but dependent on the prevailing wind..
The sixteenth is perhaps the most challenging hole on the course — a long par four that turns slightly left, the hotel reappearing on the horizon as you play back toward it. It was extended by Ebert with a redefined sharper burn.
After the Round
The clubhouse at Turnberry is exactly what you would expect from a five-star resort that has hosted four Open Championships. Leather armchairs. Views across the course to the sea. A club sandwich and a pot of tea for £27, served with a Turnberry-branded paper bag and an air of quiet confidence that it is entirely worth it – maybe.
The Verdict
Turnberry Ailsa is magnificent. Burns walked this coast. Douglas Graham farmed a mile north of the first tee. The Girvan Gang played golf five miles to the south while Burns’ father was still a young man. The lighthouse stands on the ruins of a castle that shaped Scottish history. Two World Wars tried to destroy the course and failed. Holy Willie bought it and made it better.
Whatever you think of the branding, the course itself demands only one response: reverence.
Played: 27 March 2023
Paid: £130 (list price approximately £500)
Score: 89 gross, 34 Stableford points, handicap 15, yellow tees (6,110 yards, SSS 70, Slope 124)
Value: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ at £130 / ⭐⭐⭐⭐ at rack rate
