Scotland Golf Bible

A guide to green fee value for money

Category: Links (Page 1 of 10)

164. Southerness. 26 Aug 2022.

March 4, 2023 /

Arguably Scotland’s best value golf course.

Round £80. Par 69. Course/Slope Rating (yellow) 70.6/127. Value (out of 5) – 5

Moly’s Score – 98

Southerness, pronounced ‘Sutherness’, is a beautifully deceptive and top quality golf course. But, had it not been for an unsuccessful search for coal, it may not exist.

The par four 14th, the original 1st hole, with the abundant ‘blooming’ heather.

Southern Scotland’s bloody history of struggle amongst noblemen jockeying between the warring Scots and English, meant choosing the right marriage or alliance determined life or death and, invariably, who came to own the land.

In Tudor fallout, James Douglas, Earl of Morton, was executed under the rule of James VI, by means of a Maiden (a pre-cursor to the Guillotine) in 1581, and his land in the Southerness area resorted to the Maxwell clan.

The second, a 400+ yard par 4, and stroke index 3. A characteristic hole at Southerness.

The land was then sold to Richard Oswald, a successful Scottish merchant and friend of US Founding Father, Benjamin Franklin, in the 1700s, with an intent to mine for coal. This instigated the building of the small village of Southerness and one of the world’s first lighthouses. No coal was ever found and the land lay largely undisturbed.

The beautiful approach view to the par four 3rd. The tree says it all about the prevailing wind.

One of Richard Oswald’s name sake descendants, on returning from fighting in the second world war, mercifully decided to build a golf course, which opened in 1947. Presumably as an antidote to the horrors of his war.

This history puts our golfing and life woes in context. As you play Southerness, on its serene and beautiful landscape, perhaps feel blessed that most of our lives have not shed or witnessed the blood compared with those who went before us.

The 12th green has been shored up over the years by the club. Another tough par four.

Set on the north bank of the Solway Firth, with outstanding views towards the Lake District, Oswald had the foresight to engage one of the great architects of his generation, Philip MacKenzie Ross. Often referred to just as ‘MacKenzie Ross’, a name seemingly destined to be a course designer, Southerness is his masterpiece.

The sixth hole, at 367 yards, here showing the exceptional conditioning of the course.

The golf course is a little off the beaten track, and without other world class courses in the immediate area, the pricing reflects that needed detour. I paid only £50 for a late August twilight and, starting at 3pm, had the course virtually to myself. The sun was out, it was warm, but the breeze was up – it was heavenly links golf weather. With the heather starting to bloom along with the Scottish light of late summer, it was aesthetically stunning.

The 4th, one of the five par 3s, has brilliant bunkering. Here showing views towards the “marilyn” Criffel. 

In immaculate condition, the course was scheduled to host a Scottish Seniors matchplay championship the following week, and is clearly a worthy championship venue. Albeit it’s a deceptive course on the eye.

From the tee it looks very generous. However, unlike many great Scottish links, which have rough solely of fescue and bent grasses, Southerness is surrounded by heather; find this and you’re doing well to get double bogie. The heather wraps round the club head, meaning your next shot is often still from the heather.

The approach to the par four 8th, displaying one of the features of MacKenzie Ross’s design – the use of deceptive bunkers about 50 yards short of the green.

Having racked up six triple bogies, by missing fairways, my advice would be to consider a penalty drop from the heather if it results in a decent lie, especially if two club lengths reaches the fairway. Had I taken 6 penalty drops my score would have been lower.

The course starts with three very difficult holes, although this is not MacKenzie Ross’s original layout. In 1974, the building of the current clubhouse, changed the order of the holes. The original 6th hole became the new opening hole, and all others follow the same designed order of play. The club’s website has an excellent history of the course here.

The stroke index 1 hole – the 9th, a par four of 404 yards – again showing the immaculate course condition. One of my triple bogie holes.

The club’s website also says ” a course for all abilities”. Whilst I normally loathe such ‘sound bites’, I think they have a point, since there are no long carries, little water other than the odd ditch, and pot bunkers that are penal but not impossible. The construction of the greens and surrounds, coupled with pin positions, could make this course almost unplayable in certain wind conditions. With centrally placed pins and benign conditions, high handicappers could score well – not always the case in new design – as long as you miss the heather! It’s a wonderfully crafted course.

The approach to the 13th was the original finishing hole at Southerness, fittingly with the club’s emblematic lighthouse in the background. With the small village of Southerness on show, looking towards the Lake District over the Solway Firth.

Southerness is well worth a detour for any visiting golfer, it’s the best isolated course in Scotland for me. Despite my poor 98, I still had as much enjoyment as I’ve ever had on a golf course.

If you found the history pre-amble interesting, I would recommend The Lymond Chronicles, by Dorothy Dunnett, one of Scotland’s greatest writers, which tells the warring stories in 16th century Scotland, including many Douglas’ and Maxwell’s.

Facts:

Course Type: Links

Par 69  (2 par 5s, 11 par 4s, 5 par 3s)

Distance (yellow): 6110 yards

Moly’s Gross score: 98

Moly’s Southerness Scorecard – 98

162. Panmure. 24 Aug 2022.

February 2, 2023 /

Course with a brilliant stretch of holes including a Hogan favourite.

Round £145. Par 70. Course/Slope Rating (blue) 69.1/128. Value (out of 5) – 3.5

Moly’s score – 100

With it’s ‘Hogan’ room and surrounding legend one could conclude Panmure Golf Club’s role as pivotal in American Ben Hogan’s1953 Open victory at Carnoustie.

Yet, in Gene Gregston’s seminal biography, “The Man Who Played for Glory”, the lengthy chapter dedicated to Hogan’s 1953 trip, doesn’t have a word of Panmure. Even the company NCR (National Cash Registers) gets a mention for accommodating Hogan in Dundee’s Taypark House.

The magnificent 6th, a mid length par 4, and reportedly one of Ben Hogan’s favourite holes.

These contrasting perspectives intrigued me. So many Hogan myths exist, there are books and podcasts dedicated to them. Had I stumbled upon a myth? Had Hogan really ‘played’ here?

There are no photographs of Hogan playing Panmure, although several of him on the Carnoustie Championship and Burnside courses. Other than the Panmure Club’s website I couldn’t readily uncover corroborating contemporaneous evidence. The more I researched Hogan, the meticulous preparer for tournament golf, the more skeptical I became of the story. Hogan was not on holiday, surely he would not have played Panmure, if he could play at Carnoustie. Henry Cotton’s article “Reflections of the 1953 Open”, focused on Hogan and his ‘ten days of preparation’, but again no mention of where.

Ian Ponton, of the Oz Bar in Edinburgh, putts up to the 6th green.

Researching Gregston’s writing finally uncovered a ghost written article for Ben Hogan, in one of America’s oldest institutions, The Saturday Evening Post. In ‘The Greatest Year of My Life’, published on 17th Oct 1953, in Hogan’s own words there it was…. ‘Barry’. But it was only by a quirk of fate.

The superbly bunkered short 11th hole, with the wider view of the Barry links land.

Panmure Golf Club originated in 1845, as one of several clubs using Monifieth Links; the Panmure Ladies Club, of which my wife is a member, still play at Monifieth. Due to golf’s growth the Panmure Club built the Barry course, which is midway between Monifieth and Carnoustie. Initially 9 holes laid out by Old Tom Morris, then 78 years old, it was called Barry Links or Panmure Barry, names still used by locals. James Braid remodeled the course in 1922.

The challenging 12th hole, ‘Buddon Burn’ a par 4, and stroke index 4, at Panmure.

Panmure is one of Scotland’s ‘posh’ and, until 2018, ‘men only’, clubs. One may not realise nearby Broughty Ferry, home to many of the initial Panmure members in their grand houses, was once ‘one of the richest suburbs in Europe’, due to the then industrial might of Dundee. The area’s economic reach still highlighted by Panmure’s impressive clubhouse, a replica of Calcutta Golf Club, a vestige of the British Empire.

Moly drives at the 18th towards the replica of the Calcutta Golf Club clubhouse.

The golf course is exceptionally maintained to professional playing standards. It is a classic out and back clockwise course, with any OOB being on the right. It plays into the prevailing wind on the outward 9 (except for the 7th which doubles back), so I would suggest trying to ensure you stay in play going out, as there will be opportunities to catch up coming home.

The course rates very high nationally, but for me it starts and ends rather tamely. What it does have is an outstanding middle section of holes, starting from the par three 5th, before one of Scotland’s greatest holes, the par four sixth.

The greens and surrounds are championship quality, here shown at the 168 yard 9th hole.

The 6th, ‘Hogan’, is spoken of as Hogan’s ‘favourite Carnoustie hole’, and it’s understandable why. It is a slight dogleg left, with the approach played directly into the prevailing wind, meaning the tee shot is about the worst wind direction for anyone other than the very best ball strikers. Although only 360 yards from the blue tees (Panmure’s equivalent of ‘yellow’), with a blind tee shot into a larger than seen landing area, it becomes nigh impossible in any high wind, as the approach plays to a plateau green through an ever narrowing channel. It has mesmerising natural framing. Like many great holes it’s risk-reward, as the fairway narrows at full driving length. Play it as an easy par 5, to avoid double bogie or worse. The 6th is also the part of the course with natural grassy hummocks, characteristic of this coastline.

Moly’s approach at the 12th, ‘Buddon Burn’, with the grassy hummocks in full display.

How many great holes does it take to make up a great course? That’s a question worth thinking about, especially when one is pondering value? As a Dundonian, I played Panmure several times in the 1970s and 80s, when the price was relatively much cheaper. As with many ‘well heeled’ Scottish clubs nowadays, visitor prices have focused on the more wealthy visitor fees on offer, aided in Panmure’s case by the closeness of Carnoustie. At £145 for a summer season round, I think it’s overpriced, hence my score of 3.5.

Colin Snedon at the par five 2nd, ‘Lochside’. Another mystery as there is no loch, but a pretty cottage!

Returning to the Hogan story, here’s what my investigation concluded. He started off practicing on Carnoustie, as was his plan, but found that its practice area was located next to the Barry Buddon military firing range. For Hogan, this was too noisy! So he then practiced for “an hour to an hour and a half each day at Barry” (Hogan’s words), using the 17th fairway and green (which he had cut shorter), as his practice area. As he was adapting to the smaller UK ball he was focused on his ball striking and yardages. He then went on to Carnoustie each day for his practice rounds and, late into the evenings, meticulously measuring the course, for key distances, as a modern caddy would do for his professional. He played 3 balls on each tee (to left, centre and right of the fairway). He missed one fairway in 4 rounds.

The 5th hole, a short but still very tricky par 3.

Given that he was practicing at Panmure for about a week, for about an hour a day, I think it’s highly unlikely he ever played a round at Panmure. Why would he, when he needed to learn Carnoustie’s monstrous 7,200 yard course.

As to the story of the 6th hole being Hogan’s favourite? Well, intriguingly, Carnoustie Championship course’s 6th hole is also called ‘Hogan’, with its famed ‘Hogan’s Alley’ describing a portion of land created between a loop of the Barry Burn. Might he have been confused? Nonetheless, both 6th holes are candidates for inclusion into a list of great Scottish holes.

The 17th, Ben Hogan’s driving range, helping him prepare for his 1953 Open victory.

Panmure is a great course, full of history, with a brilliant stretch of holes; however, other than for the soldier’s firing on the range, the ‘Hogan’ room at Panmure Golf Club would need another name.

Interestingly, there are still no red tees at Panmure.

Facts:

Course Type: Links

Par 70  (2 par 5s, 12 par 4s, 4 par 3s)

Distance (blue): 6113 yards

Moly’s Gross score: 100

Moly’s 100 included only 1 par. In high winds and wet, just too challenging.

159. Carnoustie Buddon. 20 Aug 22.

January 12, 2023 /

With top quality greenkeeping this is the best option for mid to high handicap golfers at Carnoustie.

Round £75. Par 68. Course Rating / Slope Rating (yellow) 67.7/117. Value (out of 5) – 3.5

Barry Buddon is a 2,300 acre peninsular between Monifieth and Carnoustie. Used as a military training area since 1850, the Scottish comedian, Billy Connelly, wrote his “weekend soldier” song based on his territorial army experiences here.

The second on The Buddon, a well bunkered par 3, with the view over the Championship Course to the right, beyond the white OOB stakes.

‘The Buddon’ is the youngest of the three Carnoustie courses. Designed by prolific golfers turned architects Peter Alliss and Dave Thomas, it was built on land previously used for military training and opened in 1981. The army range, immediately adjacent the course, is still operational, so it’s not uncommon to hear gunshots as you play. Recognising the neighbouring heritage, the holes are named after battles with the stone memorials on each tee well worth reading.

The 5th hole, “Kohima”, a par 4, named after the WW2 battle in India.

I therefore couldn’t help thinking about Billy Connelly as I played The Buddon, especially around holes 11 through 13, those closest to the military range. You might be playing exactly where Connelly lay in his camouflage dreaming up lyrics – it was during those weekend soldiering visits that Billy made his first public appearance in the Stag’s Head pub in Carnoustie in July 1962.

The beautiful bunkering and greens at The Buddon, here seen at the 4th, a mid iron par three.

Holes 2 to 5 run beside the Championship course and you clearly see you’re playing the same turf, the same immaculately contoured bunkers, the same rough – only The Buddon is much shorter. At a quarter of the price though of the main course, but with the same greenkeeping quality, you wonder why people put themselves through the potential torment of the ‘Carnastie’ layout. When I get asked “How difficult is Carnoustie?”, I tell them about a 7 handicap member, who’s never broken 80.

Moly at the 6th, the first of the non-links holes on The Buddon, a tough par 4 of nearly 400 yards.

The Buddon, on the other hand, at under 6,000 yards, offers great variety and the better opportunity to play to your handicap. I scored 86 (33 stableford points) despite winds gusting up to 40 mph. Many of the holes (6 through 16) are routed through trees, and have a distinctive heathland feel. Throw in the views towards the Sidlaws Hills and it could be the highlands. It’s consequently a great venue to discuss what constitutes a “true links”?

Fran plays from the ditch on the par four 12th hole, getting a par. Take a bow Fran.

Without the Barry Burn in play, Alliss and Thomas have made good use of man made ditches to create the same hazardous feel, albeit you can play out of the ditches. The course is generally an “out and back” layout, so the south-westerly prevailing wind is a big challenge, especially on the first 5, where OOB on the right (the boundary with the Championship course) comes into play. This was my own undoing on the third, where I hit the fairway, but on the wrong course!

The 14th, Waterloo, played with the prevailing wind, a good birdie chance, as long as you miss the large fairway bunker.

The course was in excellent condition when Fran and I played along with our host, family member Greg Kemp. The 16th was undergoing a new tee construction, but still in play from a forward mat. The greens are large and were a delight to putt on. On the day, we all played pretty well.

Greg’s power on show, driving at the last on The Buddon, a long par 4.

Of the two ‘secondary’ courses at Carnoustie, there’s little to choose from in determining which I would recommend. The Burnside has more history and is a truer links course, whereas The Buddon has more variety and is better designed. If it’s a windy day, go for The Buddon, because at least the trees give you some respite.

The short 15th hole, again showing the great bunkering on The Buddon. Thankfully its not my ball!

As to value, its a case of 3.5 for me, as the price of £75 is inflated due to its Carnoustie Championship companion. Having said that, if you ‘need’ to play on Carnoustie, this is probably the best option if you’re not single figures.

Facts:

Course Type: Links

Par 68  (2 par 5s, 10 par 4s, 6 par 3s)

Distance (yellow): 5652 yards

Moly’s Gross score: 86

Moly’s Buddon scorecard – a solid 86, especially in very high winds.

154. Montrose 1562. 11 July 22.

November 22, 2022 /

Spectacular natural links, but undermined by misleading branding.

Round £100. Par 70. Course Rating / Slope Rating (yellow) 70.3/126. Value (out of 5) – 3

Moly’s score – 91

Golfers often stand on a tee and ask “Where’s the green?”. On Montrose’s first tee, I can imagine a newcomer to links golf asking “Where’s the course?”.

The expanse of links land on view from the Montrose 1562 first tee, albeit in 1562 there would have been no course in this view!

Montrose’s 1562 layout is one of the most natural of all links courses, and as such should be a priority for those wanting to experience this form of the game at its most basic.

Bear in mind the prevailing wind is left to right at this very formidable tee shot at the second on Montrose. Like many, I suspect, I found the brilliantly positioned left hand fairway bunker. I don’t think there can be many holes where the right hand side OOB starts to your left?

Formerly named the Montrose Medal, the ‘1562’ label has only been used since 2018; ‘1562’ derived from the claim that golf has been played on the land from that year. The current course’s story and location actually begins in the 1860s, and evolved over a 50 year period during which a number of legends, starting with Old Tom Morris and ending with Harry Colt who designed the existing course in 1913. Colt had laid out the Montrose Broomfield course a few years earlier (My earlier blog here). So in fact, the more ‘junior’ of the two Montrose courses, ‘Broomfield’, actually pre-dates the ‘1562’ course!

Frank Crowe playing a typical links shot with the putter from well off the 6th green, with the poor fairway condition on show.

Like a number of Scottish Links, there were several different golf clubs that played on the same course, often in club matches versus each other, but sadly only two of them – Royal Montrose Mercantile and Montrose Caledonia – still exist and can be used by visiting golfers.

Brian Fearon putts onto the par three 12th green, one of the holes on the east-west spur away from the coast. Looked over by Gordon Samson

The course is a really honest test of links golf, set on the robust and fast running links land of the Angus coastline. There are six northbound coastal holes, starting from the daunting 2nd, then turning back south for a couple of holes, before an east to west and back gorse-laden spur from holes 10 through 15.

The par three 16th, a very difficult hole. Arguably plays like a par 4, in the prevailing wind.

The par three 16th and par four 17th are then two holes that are good enough for the Championship course of Carnoustie; fitting, as Montrose has been used as a Final Open Qualifying venue. Many a good round will have been destroyed on those late holes.

The characteristic feel of the Montrose 1562 course, here at the “Valley” 8th hole.

Unfortunately, when I played alongside 3 of my former Apex trustees, for the inaugural “Apex Trophy”, the course was not in great condition. We encountered the ‘choice’, but very accurate, language of a few local members of this hardy Angus town, mid way between the cities of Dundee and Aberdeen. I was ‘telt’ by an old guy (in his 80s, fully adorned in football colours) that “Son, the course is in its worst …… state I’ve ever seen and I’ve been a member for more than 50 years!”. It was certainly not conditioned good enough for the £65 twilight round fee, never mind the £100 daytime fee.

Moly teeing it at the final hole, one of the easier holes at Montrose. The original course was off to the left of this hole.

Nevertheless, the bunkers and greens were decent, and the quality of the layout and challenge was never in doubt, with the yellow tees still presenting 6137 yards in length. A strong wind would undo any golfer here.

I played pretty well for 91, but this was nowhere near good enough for the trophy with Gordon Samson shooting an excellent 83 (40 points), and will be severely cut for the next trophy outing!

Facts:

Course Type: Links

Par 70  (1 par 5s, 14 par 4s, 3 par 3s)

Distance (yellow): 6137 yards

Moly’s Gross score: 91

Moly’s Montrose 1562 scorecard – 91
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