Scotland Golf Bible

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209. Dunbar. 23 Jun 23.

Bandit at Dunbar? The verdict: not proven.

Price Paid: Member’s guest.
Current Price (2026): £195 Mon–Wed, £225 Friday, £265 weekends (April–October); twilight £165 Mon–Wed from 14:30.
Value Rating: Current twilight: 4/5 / Current list: 3/5
Moly’s Score: 80 gross, 42 Stableford points (Card has 43, see below for detail)

The 10th green at Dunbar: a perfectly revetted bunker, the Category B-listed “Vaults” with its cast-iron drinking fountain, and the cement works chimneys behind. Three centuries of East Lothian in one frame.

Club golf has no higher compliment than the enquiry “what did you say your handicap is?”. By the 4th green I was six under my handicap and the dreaded word “bandit” had been alluded to, fully justified in my opinion. The witnesses were Jim Taylor, a Dunbar member, excellent golfer and our host; Mark Wright, an Edinburgh eye surgeon, so presumably the best-qualified judge of what he’d seen; and Mike Johnstone, cycling buddy of Mark, who had hosted me at Kilspindie (Blog 206) two days earlier and set up the game.

Dunbar Golf Club’s East Links sits on the eastern edge of Dunbar, East Lothian, about 30 miles east of Edinburgh. There was a West Links but that closed more than a century ago. It’s a thin strip of links squeezed between an old red sandstone wall and a rocky shore. The club traces itself to a golfing society of 1794. In 1856 it laid out fifteen holes on the seaward side of the wall. Old Tom Morris altered seven holes in 1894, and the present layout largely dates from 1922–24, when James Braid and Ben Sayers extended it. So the course’s place in the Braid Atlas, developed by Scott Cook, is a genuine credit, not a courtesy. Dunbar has hosted Final Qualifying for the Open four times when the Open went to Muirfield, most recently in 2014.

Looking back down the 2nd from the 3rd tee. Fairways run side by side on a strip of land so narrow that the scorecard warns you’ll stray onto the wrong one.

My start was ridiculous. On the 1st my third shot nearly dropped for an eagle, so I settled for a birdie from 6 inches. On the par five 2nd I was on in two and three-putted for the kind of par professionals hate. On the 3rd, Jackson’s Pennies, I hit the tee shot to six feet and holed another birdie. A par on four left me at 2 under with 13 stableford points, albeit card shows 14.

The elevated 3rd tee, which the guidebooks rightly call the best view on the links. My tee shot finished ten feet away, and the putt went in.

So why do we play this well so seldom? Because the handicap system is built that way. Your index is the average of your best eight score differentials from your last twenty rounds. The other twelve don’t count. A handicap measures what you can do, not what you usually do, so most of the time you’ll fall short of it. My differential that day was 8.7 against an index of 13.4. That’s unusual, but it’s a long way short of the 7.0 gap that triggers an automatic cut. I wasn’t a bandit. I was just having my good day.

Jim drives at the 4th, with the Firth of Forth on the left, the wall on the right and very little in between.

Now the confession. I wrote 15 on the card. Off the yellows the correct figure is 14, because I applied the slope and forgot to subtract the course rating’s 0.6 below par. That one stroke fell on the 3rd. So it was 42 points, not 43, and five under after four holes, not six. My playing partners were right, but only by one shot.

Mike splashes out of a revetted bunker at the 4th, with the Bass Rock on the horizon. Dunbar’s bunkers are works of art and they punish you properly.

The front and back nine balance is the course’s one weakness. The front nine is par 37 with three par 5s; the back nine is par 34 with none. It isn’t a true out-and-back either, and the holes are so closely adjoined the fairways are at times double the width. The answer is in part a new clubhouse, funded by CALA Homes and approved in October 2022. The club expects it to open by the end of 2026, but the plans promise only a “slight alteration” to the course itself.

The wall that runs alongside most of the course is said to have been built by Napoleonic prisoners of war. Links Magazine states this as fact. Bunkered calls it a tale from the caddies. The official listing for the Broxmouth Park walls gives no builder or date at all. The verdict is the Scottish one: not proven.

The 7th green, tucked against the wall, with Barns Ness lighthouse in the distance.

The land has a better story than the wall. The Dukes of Roxburghe owned the links until 1960, when they sold up to Portland Cement. For half a century the club’s landlord was the cement company whose chimneys you can see from the 13th. The club only bought its own course in 2011. Add Torness power station, the landfill and the lighthouse, and the views are the most industrial of any top-class links I know. The course is immaculate regardless.

The 13th, heading towards the cement works and landfill, with Torness on the horizon to the left.

Then came the 11th, Girgie Mire. My approach was perfect until it caught the lip of a bunker. Seven shots, no points. Every bandit needs one hole that proves he’s human.

The 11th tee runs along the shore. A good drive and a better approach, and it still produced the only blank on my card.
Jim putting on the 12th, with the Bass Rock behind him.

The word bandit itself comes from the Italian bandito, a man placed under a ban: an outlaw by proclamation. In golf it’s a synonym for a sandbagger, and nobody seems to know when golf borrowed it. A handicap committee’s version of the proclamation is a cut. Mine came shortly thereafter in the season, and Cruden Bay and Aberdeenshire Opens will tell that story.

The 18th, heading home towards a clubhouse that is about to be replaced.

As for value, Dunbar is a 5 star quality course. At £195 midweek, I’d give it 3/5. The twilight rate of £165 lifts it to 4, given the quality and the exorbitant neighbouring prices (Gullane No 1, North Berwick, etc). Would I go back? In a heartbeat, preferably as somebody’s guest, and preferably with the same game.

Facts:
Course Type: Links
Par: 71 (3 par 5s, 11 par 4s, 4 par 3s)
Distance: 6,196 yards (yellow tees)
Course Rating / Slope: 70.4 / 124
Course Quality: 5/5
Moly’s Gross Score: 80 (42 Stableford points on the correct course handicap of 14)

My terrific start came undone on the back nine, but overall a great score for my first Dunbar round.

208. Baberton. 22 Jun 23.

The blacksmith who did take out a patent, the poets who really did meet, and a family called Marshall who keep winning.

Price Paid: Member’s guest.
Current Price (2025): £75 summer. On Golfnow price tbd
Value Rating: £75 summer list, 3/5; typically around £50 on GolfNow 4/5.
Moly’s Score: 83 gross, 37 Stableford points

The 3rd, The Knowe: the fairway undulates from the tee across the old Baberton House parkland, with the view running north beyond the trees.

Juniper Green is a village within the City of Edinburgh council area, about five miles south-west of the city centre. The club dates from 1893, when Sir James Gibson Craig leased it parkland from the Baberton House estate, land the club later bought. Willie Park Junior laid out the original nine holes.

The 1st, Waugh’s Knowe. The quality of the layout shows from the first tee shot: gorse, a falling fairway and bunkers framing the hole.

I was the guest of Derek Phillips, the fellow Dundonian I’d met at Kilspindie (Blog 206) the day before. His friend Mark, just back from illness, made up the threeball. Derek came armed with three claims to fame. I checked them all.

Moly on the 6th tee, Quarry, and swinging rather well.

Claim one: steel shafts were invented here, but nobody took out a patent. This is half right, and the wrong half is the interesting one. Founder member Tom Horsburgh, a blacksmith, forged steel-shafted clubs at his smiddy near Balerno and took out UK Patent No 8603 in May 1894. What he didn’t take out were foreign patents. His shafts were solid, the Americans made theirs hollow, and his patent lapsed in the 1920s. The R&A only allowed steel in 1929. Some of his clubs and copies of the patent papers are in the clubhouse; the rest are in the golf museum in St Andrews.

The paper trail: the agent’s letter of 16 May 1894 enclosing the seal of British Patent No 8603, “Improvements in Golf Clubs”, which turns straight to foreign and colonial patents. Horsburgh didn’t take the hint.

Claim two: the war poets. Historian Neil McLennan traced a letter placing the meeting of Wilfred Owen, Siegfried Sassoon and Robert Graves at Baberton on 13 October 1917. Sassoon wouldn’t cancel his golf match, so Owen brought Graves to the club. Owen was dead within thirteen months. English literature owes something to a golfer who wouldn’t give up his tee time.

Sassoon’s letter to Graves on Craiglockhart War Hospital notepaper, framed beside portraits of Owen, Sassoon and Graves. Two of them survived the war.

Claim three: Ewen Murray’s father, Jimmy, was the pro here for more than three decades and taught the game to Ewen, now the voice of Sky’s golf coverage. The 11th bears his name. I parred it. Three out of three, with an asterisk.

The honours board is thick with Marshalls. Joan Marshall was club champion ten times and set a course record of 68 in 1982. Her daughter Karen beat it by a stroke and has 14 titles. The 14th was renamed after Joan in 2018, and this year Karen and Ella Marshall helped retain the Edinburgh Ladies Inter-Club title.

Friends Derek (left) and Mark walk up the 13th.

We played just after the club championships, and the condition was fabulous: greens, tees and fairways alike. It’s hilly and a hard walk. The trees are tight, but the ground beneath them is clear. The real quality is in the green complexes and the bunkers, which were being rebuilt with rolled faces and rubber-resin liners.

The 5th, Garden: a 224-yard par 3 to a green tucked beneath the conifers against an old stone wall. The name hints at what that wall once enclosed.

Stroke indexes 1 to 4 are brutes, with long approaches. Those four holes cost me seven shots. The other fourteen cost me six.

The 12th, Whitelaw, stroke index 1: 474 yards for a par 4, rising to a green ringed by bunkers. A six felt like a fair result.

At £50, typical GolfNow price, this is 4/5 value: a historic, beautifully kept parkland course with a good clubhouse. At £75 list it’s 3.5/5, still fair when Royal Burgess, across the city, charges £200.

Derek on the 18th tee, Redan, with Edinburgh’s skyline and the Castle on the horizon, five miles and a world away.

Facts:
Course Type: Parkland
Par: 70 (3 par 5s, 10 par 4s, 5 par 3s)
Distance: 6,016 yards (white)
Course Rating / Slope: 69.6 / 126
Course Quality: 4/5
Moly’s Gross Score: 83 (37 Stableford points)

207. Gullane Number 3. 21 Jun 23.

After my three previous blogs covering borrowed, lost and swapped names, a course called exactly what it is.

Price Paid: £35 twilight (2023), at the starter’s box
Current Price (2026): £70 weekday, £90 weekend (£75 from noon). Twilight (April to September, from 15:36) £55 weekday, £65 weekend. Winter offer £55 weekday.
Value Rating: Price paid 5/5; current twilight 5/5; current list weekday 4.5/5, weekend 4/5

This week playing East Lothian golf has been a story of names. Luffness New plays on ground older than its name (Blog 204). Old Tom’s Luffness holes lie unmarked under Gullane No 2 (Blog 205). The original Luffness club went to the Craigielaw links and became Kilspindie (Blog 206). Gullane’s courses are simply numbered in the order they were built. No 3 opened in 1910, the third. It’s like an antidote to Kilspindie.

No 3 starts beside No 2 at the west end of Gullane, East Lothian, about 20 miles east of Edinburgh. The designer was Willie Park Jr, who laid out No 2 twelve years earlier, whereas the designer of Gullane No 1 remains a mystery (Blog 143).

The 8th, 165 yards. Don’t be fooled by 5,134 yards: my ball at the foot of a revetted face, with the flag on the green above and the Firth of Forth beyond.

I teed off alone at ten past four, with Kilspindie’s 82 already in my legs. On my own I was round in two and a half hours; the card allows three for a two-ball. The 87 is the day’s second round talking, not the course going soft.

The 3rd, 293 yards, with the path winding up Gullane Hill behind the green. It looks harmless. I took seven.

Don’t be fooled by the length. It’s par 67, with one par 5, the 443-yard 14th, and six par 3s. In Gullane No 2’s Blog (Blog 205) I said No 3 had far fewer bunkers than No 2. Fewer, maybe, but no softer: they’re deep and strategically placed. The rough is punishing on a few holes, and some of the greens are huge. After the 7 at the 3rd I added another 7 at the 16th, and a 6 on the closing par 3.

The 11th, 135 yards straight up the hill to two bunkers. The tee is the only green thing in sight on the parched June day.

After the opening holes the course climbs Gullane Hill, and the views make the case for it on their own. Look west and you see Aberlady Bay, the Luffness links and, across the water, Aberlady, where I’d started the day at Kilspindie. The whole week’s story is in one frame.

From the 7th tee, Blogs 204 to 206 in one frame: the links below, Aberlady Bay, and Aberlady across the water, home of Kilspindie. The Pentlands close the view.

Now the value. On a weekday, No 1 costs £285, No 2 £100 and No 3 £70. Same turf, same greens, same bunkering, same views.

The 4th green, with Arthur’s Seat and the Pentlands across a glittering Forth. That view costs £215 less here than on No 1.

My £35 twilight round in 2023 now costs £55, up more than half in three years, and still worth 5/5. At the £70 weekday list rate it’s 4.5/5, and £90 at weekends makes it 4/5.

The 15th, 176 yards, with North Berwick Law on the horizon and a green you could land a light aircraft on. Two putts for par felt like an achievement.

The 17th, back down to the village, with a revetted bunker right of the green waiting for anyone in a hurry to finish.

That’s four courses in three days, played, without my planning it, in the order they were laid out: Luffness New 1894, Gullane No 2 1898, Kilspindie 1899, Gullane No 3 1910. If I go back to Gullane on my own money, this is the course I’ll play.

Facts:

Course Type: Links
Par: 67 (1 par 5, 10 par 4s, 6 par 3s)
Distance: 5,134 yards (white tees)
Course Rating / Slope: 65.3 / 114
Course Quality: 4.5/5
Moly’s Gross Score: 87 (31 Stableford points)

Moly’s Gullane No 3 scorecard: 87 gross, 31 points

206. Kilspindie. 21 Jun 23.

Luffness, then Craigielaw, now Kilspindie: the club that kept losing its name.

Price Paid: Member’s guest
Current Price: £100 (2025, club website), weekdays and weekends (club website)
Value: 4/5 at list price
Moly’s Score: 82 gross, 36 Stableford points

Kilspindie sits on the western edge of Aberlady, about 15 miles east of Edinburgh,squeezed between the village and Aberlady Bay. The week I played Kilspindie, Lloyd Cole of the Commotions told The Times where he feels happiest: “If my game doesn’t totally suck, as it has the past few years, the links of Kilspindie, East Lothian, with my son Frank.” I understand why, after playing it only once.

Moly on the 5th tee, The Law. It’s 272 yards, a par 4 you can drive in theory, with the Firth of Forth alongside all the way.

I played with Kilspindie member Mike Johnstone and his pal Derek Phillips, who, like me, is a Dundonian. Fittingly, the Kilspindie name isn’t local either. The Douglases of Kilspindie probably took it from a hamlet in the Carse of Gowrie, twelve miles west of Dundee, an area where Derek and I most likely picked berries in our youth. The most famous of the Douglases, Archibald “Greysteil” Douglas, was Provost of Edinburgh and Treasurer to the young James V. The Douglases’ castle stood behind Aberlady kirk. So two Dundonians spent the morning on a links named after berry lands near Dundee. I like that.

Approaching the 13th, The Kirk, between the old stone walls. Kilspindie Castle’s stones went into the walls around Aberlady, and it’s nice to think a few ended up here.

Blog 204 tells the story of the Luffness club division in 1894, into Luffness and Luffness New, the latter moving to its current course. The Aberlady-based Luffness members remained on the old course until it’s lease ran out in 1898, and the Earl of Wemyss offered the club links land across the Aberlady Bay. Some histories, Scottish Golf History among them, say it became Kilspindie that year, but the clubhouse wall tells a different story. A notice setting caddie rules from 16 January 1899 is signed for “Luffness Golf Club”, and so is a rifle-range notice dated 16 March 1899. The club’s own date of 1899 stands, and the renaming came no earlier than spring.

Caddie rules for the “Muirfield, Gullane, Craigielaw & Luffness Mill Links”, 1899: four links and four clubs. The old Luffness club signs for the third, Craigielaw, and New Luffness for Luffness Mill.

The caddie notice has a further twist. Four links are named and four clubs sign it, so the old club’s new ground was the Craigielaw links. One golf history says just that: the members “moved to the Craigielaw Links in 1898”. The club had already lost the name Luffness to its own breakaway. A century later it lost the second. In the late 1990s Kilspindie set out to build a second eighteen on the ground next door, its landlord’s ground, and members paid handsomely for the privilege. After two years of fractious negotiation, the Wemyss and March Estates pulled out in 2001. The estate then built the course itself, with Donald Steel, and called it Craigielaw (Blog 182). So, the landlord that rescued the club in 1898 had become its competitor next door. As far as I can tell, Kilspindie still leases its links from the same estate. The two clubs now name a hole after each other: Kilspindie’s 17th is “Craigielaw” and Craigielaw’s 6th is “Kilspindie”. Make of that what you will.

Mike on the 17th green, named Craigielaw, with the stone wall and the clubhouse beyond.

The Wanster, the ground under the 9th to 11th is “perhaps the oldest golfing ground of the lot”. I’ve checked. Aberlady golfers played there sometime before 1867, and the club says before 1850, sharing the ground with the Aberlady company of the Haddingtonshire Rifle Volunteers. Gullane, however, has seven holes on record by 1840, plus a legend of 1650 matches in which Aberlady’s weavers walked over to Gullane to play. The verdict is that very Scottish one: not proven. When the golfers came back to the Wanster in 1898, the riflemen were still there, and members were told to “turn at the Third Hole” whenever the Volunteers were shooting. The 4th, The Target, and the 11th, The Magazine, are named after the range.

“Notice as to Rifle Range”, March 1899, still signed for Luffness Golf Club and issued “in terms of the Lease of the Links”: a tenant from its first season.

The golf is a delight. The 2nd to the 7th run along the coast, and water is in play on several of them when the tide is in. The greens were the best of the week, which is saying something after Luffness New and Gullane No 2.

Mike putts out on the 4th, The Target, with the beach drained by the tide and the hills of Fife beyond.
The 6th tee, Green Craig, as smooth as many greens, with 268 yards of fairway running towards Aberlady and the beach on the right.

Keep your ego in check, though. From the yellows it’s 5,209 yards, and several par 4s are almost drivable. My 82 was exactly my handicap, 36 points, and it was not half as good as my 86 in the wind at Luffness New. Lloyd Cole’s caveat applies in reverse: here, even a mediocre game can look good.

Moly on the 8th, Gosford Bay, the club’s signature par 3, with the shore all down the right. I made par, as the scorecard will confirm.

The clubhouse is a time capsule. The members’ lockers line the bar and dining room, next to the whisky cabinet. I’m told that in years gone by, members thought nothing of changing there while other people ate their lunch.

Lockers 11 to 16, the past captains, and the malt whisky cabinet, all in the same room.

Value? At £100, Kilspindie costs half Luffness New’s summer rate (£210, Blog 204), and the same as a weekday round on Gullane No 2 (Blog 205) and less than Craigielaw’s £125 (Blog 182). It’s short, but the setting, the greens and the history are first-rate. That’s 4/5.

Mike finishes on the 18th, Home.

Gullane No 3 that afternoon: Blog 207.

Facts:

Course Type: Links
Par: 69 (1 par 5, 14 par 4s, 4 par 3s)
Distance: 5,209 yards (yellow)
Course Rating / Slope: 65.7 / 106
Course Quality: 4.5/5
Moly’s Gross Score: 82 (36 Stableford points)

Moly’s scorecard – 82.

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