Set on Gallow Hill, this course has both outstanding and infamous views.
Round £35. Par 70. Course/Slope Rating (blue) 67.7/120. Value (out of 5) – 4.5
Moly’s score – 88
Reaching the sixth tee at Carnwath, I thought about Alexander McGregor’s book “The Law Killers“, the dark history of murder in the area of Dundee where I was brought up. Some of the book’s killers look out upon Carnwath golf course, from neighbouring ‘Carstairs’, the State Mental Hospital. I wondered if any ‘patients’, had been golfers and, if so, whether seeing a course through their barred windows improved or worsened their existence.
The par four 6th tee at Carnwath, with The State Hospital ‘Carstairs’ on the right. Fittingly SI 1.
Carstairs was completed in 1939, more than 30 years after the golf course opened in 1907, designed as a 9 hole layout by Willie Auchterlonie of St Andrews. This South Lanarkshire heathland course is great fun with outstanding views all around. It’s easily accessible being about about 30 miles from both Edinburgh and Glasgow.
The tough par 3 uphill opening hole, ‘Roundell’ will need a hybrid or wood for most golfers. The brown coloured ‘Roundell’ can be seen, behind the green, and was a look out point in medieval times
The course, now much changed from the initial layout, became 18 holes in 1963. It was in beautiful condition when I played in fine weather. The tees and fairways were excellent, the bunkers well raked and the greens true and fast, but not too sloping.
The par four 5th hole, “Railway”, the first of a number of strong dog leg holes at Carnwath.
The layout is unusual, with three of its four par 3s, being in the first four holes. With only two par 5s, the course’s variety is added to with dog legs, blind shots and some treacherous and well bunkered plateau greens.
The par four stroke index 3, 8th hole, the approach played steeply uphill, with only the longest hitters reaching in regulation I suspect.
The course sits astride the busy A70, which is quite hazardous to cross over. It is also a tough undulating walk, and plays all of its length, of 5632 yards from the blue (middle) tees, which would normally be coloured yellow.
The quality greens make for an enjoyable visitor experience, here shown at the tricky par four 15th hole. One of many plateau type greens.
At only £35 for a round it represents excellent value. With wide fairways, it’s no surprise this is a popular society venue, especially given the outstanding borders views and abundant wildlife. I found the staff in the shop and bar very welcoming.
Moly at the dog leg right 9th hole, “Winterlaw”, at 359 yards.Sadly, Moly’s sliced shot resulted in his only blob of the day.
Returning to The Law Killers; the stories of the headless human corpse found in my Dad’s allotment on The Dundee Law, or the murder of three women in my street, is not appropriate here. But the irony of the golf course and State Hospital being built on Gallow Hill can’t go unstated, since in bygone days, patients in Carstairs would have looked upon a Gallow of rather different construction.
Carnwath’s 6th green with The State Hospital looking on.
Course with a brilliant stretch of holes including a Hogan favourite.
Round £145. Par 70. Course/Slope Rating (blue) 69.1/128. Value (out of 5) – 3.5
Moly’s score – 100
With it’s ‘Hogan’ room and surrounding legend one could conclude Panmure Golf Club’s role as pivotal in American Ben Hogan’s1953 Open victory at Carnoustie.
Yet, in Gene Gregston’s seminal biography, “The Man Who Played for Glory”, the lengthy chapter dedicated to Hogan’s 1953 trip, doesn’t have a word of Panmure. Even the company NCR (National Cash Registers) gets a mention for accommodating Hogan in Dundee’s Taypark House.
The magnificent 6th, a mid length par 4, and reportedly one of Ben Hogan’s favourite holes.
These contrasting perspectives intrigued me. So many Hogan myths exist, there are books and podcasts dedicated to them. Had I stumbled upon a myth? Had Hogan really ‘played’ here?
There are no photographs of Hogan playing Panmure, although several of him on the Carnoustie Championship and Burnside courses. Other than the Panmure Club’s website I couldn’t readily uncover corroborating contemporaneous evidence. The more I researched Hogan, the meticulous preparer for tournament golf, the more skeptical I became of the story. Hogan was not on holiday, surely he would not have played Panmure, if he could play at Carnoustie. Henry Cotton’s article “Reflections of the 1953 Open”, focused on Hogan and his ‘ten days of preparation’, but again no mention of where.
Ian Ponton, of the Oz Bar in Edinburgh, putts up to the 6th green.
Researching Gregston’s writing finally uncovered a ghost written article for Ben Hogan, in one of America’s oldest institutions, The Saturday Evening Post. In ‘The Greatest Year of My Life’, published on 17th Oct 1953, in Hogan’s own words there it was…. ‘Barry’. But it was only by a quirk of fate.
The superbly bunkered short 11th hole, with the wider view of the Barry links land.
Panmure Golf Club originated in 1845, as one of several clubs using Monifieth Links; the Panmure Ladies Club, of which my wife is a member, still play at Monifieth. Due to golf’s growth the Panmure Club built the Barry course, which is midway between Monifieth and Carnoustie. Initially 9 holes laid out by Old Tom Morris, then 78 years old, it was called Barry Links or Panmure Barry, names still used by locals. James Braid remodeled the course in 1922.
The challenging 12th hole, ‘Buddon Burn’ a par 4, and stroke index 4, at Panmure.
Panmure is one of Scotland’s ‘posh’ and, until 2018, ‘men only’, clubs. One may not realise nearby Broughty Ferry, home to many of the initial Panmure members in their grand houses, was once ‘one of the richest suburbs in Europe’, due to the then industrial might of Dundee. The area’s economic reach still highlighted by Panmure’s impressive clubhouse, a replica of Calcutta Golf Club, a vestige of the British Empire.
Moly drives at the 18th towards the replica of the Calcutta Golf Club clubhouse.
The golf course is exceptionally maintained to professional playing standards. It is a classic out and back clockwise course, with any OOB being on the right. It plays into the prevailing wind on the outward 9 (except for the 7th which doubles back), so I would suggest trying to ensure you stay in play going out, as there will be opportunities to catch up coming home.
The course rates very high nationally, but for me it starts and ends rather tamely. What it does have is an outstanding middle section of holes, starting from the par three 5th, before one of Scotland’s greatest holes, the par four sixth.
The greens and surrounds are championship quality, here shown at the 168 yard 9th hole.
The 6th, ‘Hogan’, is spoken of as Hogan’s ‘favourite Carnoustie hole’, and it’s understandable why. It is a slight dogleg left, with the approach played directly into the prevailing wind, meaning the tee shot is about the worst wind direction for anyone other than the very best ball strikers. Although only 360 yards from the blue tees (Panmure’s equivalent of ‘yellow’), with a blind tee shot into a larger than seen landing area, it becomes nigh impossible in any high wind, as the approach plays to a plateau green through an ever narrowing channel. It has mesmerising natural framing. Like many great holes it’s risk-reward, as the fairway narrows at full driving length. Play it as an easy par 5, to avoid double bogie or worse. The 6th is also the part of the course with natural grassy hummocks, characteristic of this coastline.
Moly’s approach at the 12th, ‘Buddon Burn’, with the grassy hummocks in full display.
How many great holes does it take to make up a great course? That’s a question worth thinking about, especially when one is pondering value? As a Dundonian, I played Panmure several times in the 1970s and 80s, when the price was relatively much cheaper. As with many ‘well heeled’ Scottish clubs nowadays, visitor prices have focused on the more wealthy visitor fees on offer, aided in Panmure’s case by the closeness of Carnoustie. At £145 for a summer season round, I think it’s overpriced, hence my score of 3.5.
Colin Snedon at the par five 2nd, ‘Lochside’. Another mystery as there is no loch, but a pretty cottage!
Returning to the Hogan story, here’s what my investigation concluded. He started off practicing on Carnoustie, as was his plan, but found that its practice area was located next to the Barry Buddon military firing range. For Hogan, this was too noisy! So he then practiced for “an hour to an hour and a half each day at Barry” (Hogan’s words), using the 17th fairway and green (which he had cut shorter), as his practice area. As he was adapting to the smaller UK ball he was focused on his ball striking and yardages. He then went on to Carnoustie each day for his practice rounds and, late into the evenings, meticulously measuring the course, for key distances, as a modern caddy would do for his professional. He played 3 balls on each tee (to left, centre and right of the fairway). He missed one fairway in 4 rounds.
The 5th hole, a short but still very tricky par 3.
Given that he was practicing at Panmure for about a week, for about an hour a day, I think it’s highly unlikely he ever played a round at Panmure. Why would he, when he needed to learn Carnoustie’s monstrous 7,200 yard course.
As to the story of the 6th hole being Hogan’s favourite? Well, intriguingly, Carnoustie Championship course’s 6th hole is also called ‘Hogan’, with its famed ‘Hogan’s Alley’ describing a portion of land created between a loop of the Barry Burn. Might he have been confused? Nonetheless, both 6th holes are candidates for inclusion into a list of great Scottish holes.
The 17th, Ben Hogan’s driving range, helping him prepare for his 1953 Open victory.
Panmure is a great course, full of history, with a brilliant stretch of holes; however, other than for the soldier’s firing on the range, the ‘Hogan’ room at Panmure Golf Club would need another name.
Interestingly, there are still no red tees at Panmure.
Facts:
Course Type:Links
Par 70 (2 par 5s, 12 par 4s, 4 par 3s)
Distance (blue): 6113 yards
Moly’s Gross score: 100
Moly’s 100 included only 1 par. In high winds and wet, just too challenging.
One of Scotland’s highest rated heathland courses.
Round £120. Par 71. Course Rating / Slope Rating (white) 73.6/133. Value (out of 5) – 3.5
Moly’s score – 97
Fife has some of the world’s greatest links golf courses, but at Ladybank, only 15 miles west of St Andrews, you will find a heathland golf course rated in Scotland’s top 50. Used as a final qualifying venue for The Open, when hosted in St Andrews, Ladybank is a great test of your game.
The green at the first at Ladybank, a good par 4 of 373 yards, lets you know what you are in for.
The course is in an area called the Howe of Fife, a low-lying strip of land that follows the course of the River Eden towards St Andrews. This flat piece of land was mostly marshland and peat bog before 1800, and the village was originally named Lady’bog’ by the monks of Lindores Abbey from Newburgh.
The par four 5th, so characteristic of Ladybank.
For some unrecorded reason the railway station, built in the 1840s, was called Ladybank, after which time the village adopted this name. So the golf course can trace its name to a railway station.
The 10th at Ladybank, a par 3 of 172 yards, with the beautiful heathland terrain on show.
Unlike the station, which is one of the most unchanged in Scotland, the golf course has undergone an evolution. In 1879, 6 holes were laid out by Old Tom Morris, who being 58 was past his golfing peak but golf course design was becoming much called for. The course became 18 holes only in 1962, designed by Laurie Auchterlonie (son of Open Champion Willie Auchterlonie), but you wouldn’t be able to choose which was the most recent 9, because the course flows so well.
Kilsyth member Ian Carstairs driving at the 14th, a very strong par 4 over 400 yards.
It’s a classic low-lying heathland setting. Flat terrain, fast running sandy turf, set amongst pine and silver birch trees, with great natural drainage. The club’s emblem is a red squirrel, the heathland setting providing an ideal habitat.
April Carstairs hits her second shot at the par 5 13th hole.
I can understand why some people find such heathland settings a little repetitive , with most holes being tree lined, obscuring any surrounding landscape. In Ladybank’s case, this is more than overcome by spectacular greenside design, a number of subtle dog leg left and right holes, genuine par 5s and a strong set of par 3s. This is the type of course better players will have to choose which side of the fairways to avoid being short sighted into the green. It deserves the high slope rating of 133 from the white tees.
The 3rd, with its brilliant green, a difficult par 4.Leaving it a bit short was a good result.
Fran and I played in the Mixed Pairs event, one of several open competitions held at Ladybank each year. Open events are a great Scottish tradition, which started in the mid 1800s, at the embryonic time of golf’s domestic growth. We paid only £60 per pair, incredible value. The full rate for a round of £120 is, I believe, starting to price out most Scottish peripatetic golfers, hence the growing popularity of open competitions. We were paired with Kilsyth members, couple Ian and April Carstairs, and we had a great time playing in their company.
The 9th, so characteristic of Ladybank.
We played well collectively, with a better ball 68 (3 under), finishing 27th of 70 pairs. The course was suffering from the recent dry spell with fairways burnt and incredibly fast running. The greens were firm and very fast. Despite the abundent trees, they were well managed and balls could easily be found. If I was to play again I would take more notice to the distances to the flags, as there was quite a lot of dead ground, which coupled to the length of greens could make 2 or 3 clubs extra needed to what a shot might look like.
Worth playing Ladybank, a great open venue.
Facts:
Course Type:Heathland
Par 71 (3 par 5s, 11 par 4s, 4 par 3s)
Distance (white): 6616 yards
Moly’s Gross score: 97
Moly’s individually kept scorecard of 97, which contributed to Fran and his net 3 under for the Mixed Pairs Open at Ladybank.
Round £25. Par 72. Course Rating / Slope Rating (yellow) 68.5/124. Value (out of 5) – 5
Moly’s Score – 92
Balfron is a substantial village of over 2000 people in West Stirlingshire, only 16 miles north of Glasgow. Surrounded by the Campsie Hills and the Trossachs, I can’t sum up the golf course better than the clubs own promotional video;
Typical August day in Scotland? Moly putts out on the 12th one of the easier par four holes at Balfron’s Shian course.
The first Balfron golf course was established in 1905, but returned to agricultural use in 1939 to support the war effort. In 1991 a group of villagers founded the Balfron Golfing Society and a 9 hole course was finally established in 1994, no doubt after a great deal of hard work. The course was extended to 18 holes in 2001. The Balfron Society named the course “Shian”, which in Gaelic means peaceful.
Moly gets ready to tackle the par five 15th, his only birdie of the day.
The herculean efforts of the society has resulted in a really fine golf course, which feels more mature than it is. With outstanding views, lush moorland and the “honesty box” wooden clubhouse this is quintessential Highland Scottish golf.
The quaint clubhouse where Fran and Moly enjoyed an ‘honesty’ cuppa and chocolate bar.
When Fran and I played on a cloudy day in mid August, there was only one other two ball game on the course. It was certainly ‘secluded’ and we, in turn, felt ‘special’, playing that beautiful game of ‘millionaires’ golf that occasionally comes your way.
Fran tees at the 9th, amidst the scenic ‘blooming heather’ West Stirlingshire surroundings.
It’s certainly worth going out of your way to play The Shian course. At only £25, it is excellent value, since the course in no way feels a “self help’ set up. The greenkeeper Kevin Wilkie and his small team are doing a great job, with teeing grounds and greens both first class. There is excellent use of the natural surroundings and good use of the burn that runs through the 15th and 17th holes, these two holes being the stand out architecture, reminiscent of the great architectures of Braid or Alastair McKenzie.
The burn running towards the 15th green, the par 5 of 513 yards.
The course designer has done well to seamlessly join the original nine and the newer holes. Plus, the greens are worthy of note, being both undulating and at times bemusing. Thankfully, it’s also an open driving course, with almost no fairway bunkers, therefore the slope rating of 124 reinforces the trickiness of the remaining features.
A typical aesthetically pleasing hole at Balfron Golf Society’s Shian course. The approach to the par four 8th hole.
All in all, this is great fun golf. To top it off, do plan to have an ‘honesty” tea and snack in the delightful clubhouse. This is the sort of course that visiting tourists playing the established courses should take time to discover.
The long par 4, 17th hole, a challenging hole. Don’t you just hate when you reach a long par 4 in two to then 3 putt for a bogie.
With only around 300 or so members paying under £400, its critical for visitor income to ensure courses like The Shian survive.
On the day, I played solidly for a 92 and 32 stableford points.
Facts:
Course Type:Heathland
Par 72 (3 par 5s, 12 par 4s, 3 par 3s)
Distance (yellow): 5859 yards
Moly’s Gross score: 92
Moly’s 92, a decent round on this delightful course
